Smith Rock – March 2010

Smith Rock. Photo by Genevieve Hathaway.

Well I’m back from an incredible weekend of climbing and girl time with my rockstar climbing gal pal Sara, Sara of rockclimbergirl.com (if you haven’t ever checked out her blog, check it out, she’s awesome and an amazing climber, click on the link: http://www.rockclimbergirl.com/).

My weekend kicked off with a 5 1/2 hour roadtrip from Seattle down Smith Rock, Oregon (just outside of Redmond).  The weather was beautiful, a perfect day for climbing. Upon arrival I headed down into Smith Rock to find my partner in crime who was apparently up on a wall somewhere.  Sara had connected with two awesome guys and was climbing a wickedly fun crack route.  It didn’t take long before I head the cry of “Gen” from my fellow red-head and spotted Sara waving her arms from up to the left of Morning Glory.  Girl weekend was on!

Smith Rock. Photo by Genevieve Hathaway.

Me on Helium Woman. 5.9.

After saying goodbye to the guys we headed to the Dihedrals to warm up on a fun 5.9, Helium Woman.  Sara flew up the route on lead and I followed.  Then we moved the rope over to Captain Xenolith, a 5.10b.  The first few moves were the crux, but once up it was smooth sailing.

With a few solid hours of climbing under our belts and very sore fingers, we decided it was a good day of climbing and time for some free beer at the Redpoint gear shop (if you go there on a demo day you too can get free beer).  What’s better than a great day of climbing, a great day of climbing + quality free beer.  We spent some time hanging with the Scarpa reps before moving the party to a nearby bar for an experiment – orange tea and burbon.  Sounded good in theory, not so much in practice.  Next time, note to self, black tea and cognac.  Yum!

The campground (aka bivouac site) at Smith Rock is one of the best I’ve been to and it’s only $5 (which also covers your cost of parking at the climbing area).  There’s nice bathroom, hot water from the sinks, private rooms for each shower, unending hot water in the showers (which don’t cost anything) and a clean picnic area.

Day 2 involved more great climbing.  First off was Morning Glory Wall.  I dove right in with a 5.10b that morphed into a 5.11 (the hardest I’ve

Me on Helium Woman.

ever climbed) when halfway up I moved over to follow directly along the bolts (basically the actual climb).  Climbing next to our route was a 8 year old kid leading (yes you read that right, the kid looked about 8 was kickbutt leading the 5.9 next to us).  Quote of the weekend.  He turned to his instructor and asked which way he should go up.  The instructor yelled back “Only climb on holds you can fit your whole body into!”  Priceless!

After playing around on Morning Glory Wall, Sara and I headed over to The Peanut.  We first climbed a great 5.9, Tammy Baker’s Face, that mostly followed a great edge all the way up.  Then we did a mellow 5.8, Hop on Pop, which had some good nobs and a not too hard slabby section at the top.  Sara taught me to clean the route and I got to clean my very first route on Hop on Pop!

I was sad to say goodbye to Smith Rock.  I always have such an incredible time here, and climbing and girl time with Sara made it even better. Smith Rock is fantastic no matter what your skill level and has everything from slabs, to nubbings to cracks to Trad to climb.

Sara about to get her climb on on Captain Xenolith. All smiles. Photo by Genevieve Hathaway. 5.10a.

The Dihedrals. Helium Woman on the right, Captain Xenolith on the left. Photo by Genevieve Hathaway.

Sporting my new Petzl Elia helmet. Petzl really nailed a perfect woman's helmet.

Sara and I. Two happy campers after a great day of climbing.

Cheers to a great day of climbing.

Day 2. Morning Glory Wall. 5.10b/5.11

Me climbing on Morning Glory Wall.

Me on Morning Glory Wall.

Sara on Morning Glory Wall. Photo by Genevieve Hathaway.

Sara on Morning Glory Wall.

Sara leading Tammy Baker's Face. 5.9.

Me cleaning the top of Hop on Pop. 5.8.

Rapping down off of my first cleaing of a route.

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~ by Genevieve Hathaway on March 31, 2010.

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