Some Key Trad Concepts

After my fabulously fun weekend in Leavenworth learning to lead trad I thought I’d share some basic trad concepts and principles on IceBella that I found really helpful.

The 3 Trad Climbing Principles:

1) Don’t Fall!!

2) Don’t pass up a bomber gear placement.  Feed the crack!

3) Don’t pass up a great rappel station.

When placing gear:

1) Horizontal cracks are great for hexs and tricams and aliens

2) Pinching cracks are great for nuts (and some hexs)

3) Flaring or wider cracks are great for cams

Don’t forget:

Try to line the gear up for direction of fall.


Look around beyond just the crack to see if there is a better placement.  Think outside of the box.


Solid.  Try to place gear in the most solid rock you can – not flakes that won’t pass the crowbar test.

~ by Genevieve Hathaway on September 16, 2010.

One Response to “Some Key Trad Concepts”

  1. Don’t fall? I must have forgot that part.

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