Self-rescue: a few tips of the trade

Last weekend, I spent it out on Roto Wall in Leavenworth learning some very handy self-rescue tricks.  The overarching theme was though – it’s freakin’ hard to truly self-rescue someone and even harder to rappel an injured (especially much larger person) down with you.  Some cool things I learned:

– It all involves a lot of prussiking up and down, up and down.

– And when the gear trolls steals gear, get creative.

– There are more ways than one has fingers and toes to use the personal anchor.

– Put a chest harness on your injured party when rappeling with them, you’ll thank me, especially when their limp body starts dragging you everywhere.

– Always anchor yourself to the rock, even when belaying your buddy on the first pitch; otherwise self-rescue life is hell.

– Remember MOFA and do it.

– When in doubt munter-mule hitch, when not in doubt munter-mule hitch.

– Soft knots please.

– Steal your buddies gear for anchors.

– Length in the rope is evil, make everything tight and build your rap set up RIGHT on your anchor.

– Carry a knife, cutting may be required.

– Slow and steady wins this race (with how fast your brain will be racing you’ll actually be going at a normal pace).

– Practice, practice, practice!

If you haven’t taken a self-rescue course I highly recommend it!!  Your climbing buddies will thank you.

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~ by Genevieve Hathaway on September 24, 2010.

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